Peru – September 2010

Introduction

Planning started in May 2009 for a trip to South America for myself and my wife Yvonne in September 2010.  I had previously only been to Venezuela for a couple of days, so the rest of South America would be a completely new experience.
Rugged Andes from Machu Piccu

In preparation for the trip we bought quite a few books via Amazon, including tourist guides for South America, Peru, the Galapagos and Ecuador, Travellers Wildlife Guide for Peru, birding field guides for Chile, Peru, Ecuador, Northern South America (two volumes), and the Galapagos. There was lots of information to wade through and the numbers of birds plus new species and families was mind boggling.

The original concept was to visit Peru, Ecuador and the Galapagos, with a stopover in Chile. I approached a number of tour operators and looked at many travel itineraries and flight options. It soon became clear that the original concept of trip to Peru for 10 to 12 days, Ecuador and the Galapagos for a further 10 to 12 days and then Chile for a further week was too ambitious and after allowing for flight connections, would not allow sufficient time in any one country to do it justice.

In addition a trip to the Galapagos, which requires at least a 7 day trip to visit the key islands and do the place justice, is expensive and had a big impact on the proposed itinerary. As the Galapagos tours have fixed departure dates, one has to juggle the flights to minimise wasting time with connections.

The concept for the itinerary then changed to three days birding around Santiago in Chile followed by a 30 day trip to Peru. The flights on LAN Chile would take us from Sydney to Auckland in New Zealand, then across to Santiago in Chile before flying up to Lima in Peru.

The itinerary for Peru would include a pelagic from Lima, a two day trip to Cusco and Machu Picchu, two days at Abra Malaga, then 12 days down the Manu road and into the Amazon, and finally a 11 day trip around northern Peru. This itinerary was finalised by February 2010, the flight bookings made and the trip deposit paid for. Further tweaking of the trip details continued up until June 2010 when the balance of the trip was paid for.

The trip to Cusco and Machu Picchu was a private trip for myself and Yvonne, for Abra Malaga and Manu we were joining up with a group of four birders from South Africa and the Northern Peru trip was a customised private tour with a couple from Canada joining us to reduce the costs.
The company which I eventually selected for Peru was Tanager Tours which gave us the flexibility we were looking for and offered a good trip at a reasonable cost.  Tanager Tours (www.tanagertours.com) is a Peru based tour group specialising in customised birding tours with small group sizes generally between 2 and 7 clients.

As the Tanager Tours website states, “We are realistic in what is possible when birding – although we also do our utmost to show our customers as much as possible of Peru’s splendour and do all we can to answer the clients’ wishes for endemic or difficult to find species, we do not build castles of air. Our strategy is to make a realistic plan, based on thorough correspondence, to attain our clients’ targets. Tanager Tours’ guiding principle is that our tours should surpass your expectations, not to evoke unrealistic expectations that we cannot substantiate. After all, birds remain birds, and that is exactly their attraction.”

Tanager Tours certainly met and exceeded our expectations, largely as a result of the efforts of our guide David Geale, who was outstanding in his organisational and birding skills, and is the best birding guide I have had the privilege of birding with.

Last Minute Changes


When I started planning for the trip in 2009, business was slow and was impacted by the Global Financial Crisis. By the time 2010 came along, work had picked up considerably and I was under a lot of pressure as I was now managing a major project, in addition to other consulting work. In 2010, I had already made seven overseas trips before the scheduled trip to Peru in September, including three to North America, one to Europe and one to Southern Africa. 

So it was getting hectic and as I couldn’t afford to be away from work for over five weeks, I decided to reduce the trip to three weeks. To do this I cut out the Lima pelagic and the Northern Peru trip. In addition I changed the flights to fly with Qantas from Sydney directly to Buenos Aires in Argentina and then onto Lima. On the way back I arranged for a three day stop-over in Argentina and a birding trip away from the city.

I managed to get a full refund from LAN Chile on the flights, there is a clause in the small print which allows for a refund if they cancel or change any booked flights, which they had. I found it very difficult dealing with LAN Chile, as their Sydney office is hopeless and all queries and flight changes go though their South American offices. Originally I just asked them to cancel the flights to Northern Peru but they refused to do this, so I cancelled all the bookings and got a full refund. 

These changes were made three weeks before the trip and was not a decision taken lightly, as I was really looking forward to the trip to Northern Peru.

Colourful Markets at Pisac

Peru


First Impressions
25th September - The flight across to Argentina was a good trip, plenty of time to sleep and great views over Antarctica and the southern parts of South America. There was a bit of a long stop-over of 9 hours in Buenos Aires before flying up to Lima.

25th September - On arrival into Lima we got though customs very quickly and leaving our checked-in luggage behind, we were out of the airport earlier than expected. We checked with three different staff about our luggage which had been booked from Melbourne through to Cusco, if we should pick it up in Lima. We were assured that this was not necessary and that it would go onto Cusco the following morning.

At the airport we failed to find Wim ten Have who was the owner of Tanager Tours and was going to take us across Lima to our accommodation in Barranco. The local touts selling accommodation at the airport said that there was nothing available at the airport and suggested their preferred accommodation, no doubt with a commission in mind. After looking around for Wim for about 45 minutes and getting frustrated we walked across the road to an airport hotel and managed to get a room with no problems, which cost US$200 as compared to what I had been quoted at US$340 before.

All we wanted to do was clean-up and sleep, as we had an early morning flight the next day to Cusco. We were horribly jet lagged at that stage, having travelled for over 30 hours and it was still Saturday 25th September.

26th September - The next morning we tried to check-in for our flight to Cusco and were refused as we didn’t have our check-in luggage.  So off to the local LAN Chile office to sort this out. The office was closed and only opened at 8:30am well after our flight was due to leave. Luckily there was a lady working in the office sorting out some other problem and she eventually took us into the secure area of the international arrivals hall to retrieve our bags from storage. By this time it was getting close to our departure time, so it was a rush back to the domestic check-in and then up to the boarding area. Not a good start to our trip.

This map shows the trip route from Cusco to Machu Picchu and also route down the Manu Road and Alto Madre de Dios river.




Inca Ruins
The flight to Cusco was great with close-up views of the Andes and a spectacular approach to Cusco airport. Lima looked dry and dusty from the air, Cusco looked far worse, not what one reads about in the tourist guides!

Sprawling Cusco

Luckily at Cusco we had a guide to meet up with and things were getting back on track. Cusco is at an altitude of 3,400m so its takes a little bit of getting used to. One can certainly feel the effect when walking up steep slopes. For the balance of the day we visited Inca ruins of Saqsayhuman close to Cusco, then more ruins down the Sacred Valley at Pisac. The ruins at Pisac are worth a visit and the surrounding mountains are impressive.

Inca Ruins of Saqsayhuman close to Cusco

We also stopped off at our first Peruvian market for some shopping. The local clothes, jerseys, blankets and bags have some wonderful colours and it’s hard not to buy too much.

Urubamba Valley

We then travelled down the Urubamba Valley onto our accommodation at Hotel Sauce (www.hostalsauce.com.pe) in Ollantaytambo. The hotel was very pleasant and comfortable, with friendly hosts. Had a message from David Geale and met up with him that evening for a quick introduction. What a relief that we had made contact with David and now the trip looked as if it was back on track. 

View from Hotel Sauce across Ollantaytambo with some Inca ruins on the hillside

Machu Picchu

27th September – Originally we had requested the 5:10am train from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu, however by the time Tanager Tours were able to purchase the tickets, over 6 months later, only the 10:30am trip was available. There had been serious floods earlier in the year which had washed away the railway line and stranded tourists. Whilst the rail service was out of service there had been no ticket sales.


Vistadome to Machu Piccu

The train trip down the Urubamba Valley was very pleasant in the Vistadome and there were snow-capped peaks along the way. Most of the valley was dry and dusty, however just before we arrived at the village of Aquas Calientes the vegetation changed to quite tropical and green. Machu Picchu itself is exposed to humid air coming up the Urubamba Valley from the Amazon River basin and this provides the rain.


Inca Trail with Snow-capped Peaks

After arriving in Aquas Calientes we had to find a bus to take us up the dusty winding road to the Machu Picchu entrance plus purchase a set of tickets for the site from a different office. We had great weather up at Machu Picchu and thoroughly enjoyed exploring the Inca ruins. The Inca site is very impressive and well worth visiting. It’s interesting that the elevation at Machu Picchu is only 2,430m which is considerably lower than Cusco.


Machu Piccu

We had a train booked for 7:30pm, however as we had had plenty of time to explore Machu Picchu and the markets at Aquas Calientes, we took an earlier trip back to Ollantaytambo.


Some Incredible Engineering at Machu Piccu

Not much in the way of birds at Machu Picchu or in the Urubamba Valley, however we did see at least 14 Torrent Duck on the train ride in the morning.   

Abra Malaga

28th September – We met up with the rest of the birding party and made an early start from Ollantaytambo. We headed up the Abra Malaga pass and over the other side, to slightly lower elevation, to bird the upper cloud forest in the morning. After lunch we travelled back over the pass and birded in a sheltered valley on the eastern side of the pass. The road winds up to the Abra Malaga pass which has an elevation of 4,350m and the peaks on either side are covered with snow. Quite spectacular and you soon appreciate having a good driver. 



Local Orchids on Western Slopes of Abra Malaga
The birding was mainly walking along the road side and locating birding parties. As all these birds were new species, it took a while to come to terms with the bird names and families. Some 58 birds were seen on the day, with new families such as Hemispingus, Tit-tyrant, Chat-Tyrant, Cinclodes, Starfrontlet, Tuftedcheek, Elaenia and Thistletail. This included many hummingbird families of various forms, such as Hummingbird, Sapphirewing, Puffleg, Metaltail, Sunbeam and Starfrontlet. Also saw five different Tanager species for the day.

Creamy-crested Spinetail

Some specials for the area were seen, such as the endemics Creamy-crested Spinetail and White-tufted Sunbeam but as all the birds were new, it’s hard to get excited about a special or rare bird. Back in Ollantaytambo for the evening and dinner at a local Italian restaurant.

29th September – Another early morning and back up the Abra Malaga pass, well there were no late mornings for the next three weeks, so we just got used to it. Today we stopped at the top of the pass and then walked further up the mountain to do some high altitudinal birding. It’s hard work at that elevation and there’s not much oxygen in the air, so lots of heavy breathing.

Abra Malaga at about 4,500m

We saw a couple of the high altitude specialities such as the Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant and White-browed Tit-Spinetail both of which inhabit the Polylepis woods and Gynoxys thickets between 3700 and 4600m. On the way down the steep slopes of the other side of the mountain, we came across more birds as we descended into farmland, such as Stripe-headed Antpitta and Andean Flicker. We had a number of Mountain Caracara fly over which are impressive birds. For the day we managed to only see 33 birds but the birds we did see were specialised birds which we didn’t see on the rest of the trip.

Stripe-headed Antpitta

That afternoon we travelled back to Ollantaytambo to collect our bags before driving up to Cusco for the evening. Had dinner in a delightful restaurant which had great food and very interesting decorations.
Cusco Restaurant
Manu Road

30th September – This was the day we were to start the trip along the Manu Road and we were leaving civilisation with some trepidation. First stop was at Lake Huacarpay to see some highland lake and marsh birds such as Many-colored Rush-tyrant which is quite a spectacular little bird found in the reed beds. We also saw some of the special endemics such as Bearded Mountaineer (a hummingbird) and Rusty-fronted Canastero, plus the Giant Hummingbird, the largest of the hummingbirds.  We did see two Andean Fox (also known as Culpeo Fox - Pseudalopex culpaeus) in the wetlands which was very nice.

After that it was a tedious drive up dusty mountain passes, through barren landscape till we reached the Ajanaco pass at 3,550m at midday.  Along the way to Paucartambo we stopped at the Chullpas of Ninamarca. These are ruins of pre-Inca burial chambers from the Lupaca people which were constructed between 1150 and 1250AD. 
Chullpas of Ninamarca - Pre-Inca Burial Towers

From there the scenery changed abruptly and we were into cloud forest, that is on the eastern slopes of the Andes where the cool wet air drifts up from the Amazon basin. This is where the Manu Biosphere Reserve begins and it was a welcome relief from the dusty Peru we had been in previously.

View of Manu Road to the East of Ajanacu Pass

We did some birding at the top of the Ajanacu pass and managed to photograph Scribble-tailed Canastero. David Geale and I saw Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan in the early evening which was a great bird to see, my first Toucan. Also saw four great looking Tanagers, such as the Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager and the Barred Fruiteater. 

Scribble-tailed Canastero

At Lake Huacarpay in the morning I had seen 38 birds, plus three birds seen on the dusty drive and then 25 birds in the afternoon, with a total of 66 birds for the day.

That evening we stayed at the ACCA (Aves de Wayqecha) research centre situated at 2,700m. The accommodation as very comfortable and the gardens were lovely, a great place to stay and unfortunately we were only there for a night.

To give an idea of the elevation changes we started at the top of the Andes pass at 3,500m and had to descend to about 300m at Puerto Maldonado, over the next 10 days.


1st October – Today we travelled very slowly down the Manu Road to the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (CORL) walking for a good part of the way. The elevation drops from 2,700m to 2,000m and the weather was pleasant and cool in the morning, warming up during the day with light rain in the afternoon. The vegetation consists of thick forests with steep valleys.

Birding the Manu Road - David Geale in the gumboots

There are frequent landslides which take huge trees down into the valleys, which are then washed down into the major river system. It’s still very much an evolving landscape and interesting to see how the valleys and forests have developed.

Rebuilding the road after a recent landslide

There were plenty of beautiful butterflies along the way and there are some tours available to Peru dedicated just to butterflies.  

Roadside Butterfly

That evening we stayed at the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge which was very pleasant with separate bungalows. The dining area overlooked the lovely gardens and the bird feeders. Plenty of interesting Hummingbird visiting the feeders plus we saw Bolivian Squirrel, Tayra, South American Coati and Black Agouti from the veranda.  




Black Agouti
Between the ACCA and CORL I saw 67 birds for the day which included 12 different species of Tanager. The main target was Red-and-white Antpitta however we only managed to hear this bird after much scambling through bamboo thickets. Had good views of the Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (COTR) from the road close to the lodge, which was just as well as the lek and viewing hide had been washed away.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock
2nd October – Today we birded in areas close to the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (CORL). The birding in the morning was excellent with three COTR’s seen plus nine Hummingbird and ten Tanager species seen. Heavy rain affected the birding during the afternoon and we packed it in at 3:30pm. No attempt was made to find the Lyre-tailed Nightjar in the evening, it was just too wet. We spent the evening at CORL.




I saw 69 species of bird for the day which included targets such as the stunning Versicolored Barbet, Yungas Manakin, Chestnut-tipped Toucanet and Dusky-green Oropendola. 

3rd October – Today we birded from the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge at 2,000m down to about 1,000m from 06:00 to 10:30. We stopped off at Pilcopata later in the morning before taking a boat down to the Amazonia Lodge. We saw our first Red-and-green Macaw and Chestnut-fronted Macaw from Pilcopata.

We had dropped significantly in elevation during the morning and were now on the upper reaches of the Alto Madre de Dios river, which was fast flowing and fairly shallow at this point. The weather had been cool and misty in the morning and remained cool for the rest of the day.


Alto Madre de Dios river at Pilcopata

We arrived at Amazonia Lodge in the early afternoon after a short boat ride and then birded around the lodge grounds. The accommodation at Amazonia was excellent and there were comfortable chairs to relax in and enjoy the various Hummingbirds and Tanagers plus the Pale-legged Hornero which frequented the gardens. The Rufous-crested Coquette was however the highlight of the garden birds.

Rufous-crested Coquette

The birding in the morning at the higher elevations and also at Amazonia Lodge was excellent with 98 birds seen for the day. This was the highest bird list for the trip so far and most of the birds were seen at Amazonia Lodge. At long last I felt that we were getting into the real birding for Peru.

4th October – Unfortunately we only had one night at Amazonia and had to leave at 2pm. In the morning we headed off on a walk into the forest behind the lodge. When the birding slowed down I left the group and headed up to the top of the hill and up the rickety canopy tower, which has wonderful views over the forest and river.

Swallow-tailed Kite

Up the tower I had birds come up very close, good enough for photos, such as Blue, Back-faced and Yellow-bellied Dacnis plus Purple Honeycreeper and Green Honeycreeper. The highlight however was four Swallow-tailed Kites flying over very close to the tower. There were plenty of other interesting birds seen from the tower and it was a good exercise in bird identification without relying on the guide.

Blue Dacnis (female)

At 2pm it was back into the boat to head further downstream to Pantiacolla Lodge where we were to spend the next three nights. Pantiacolla Lodge was a great place to stay although was quite different to Amazonia Lodge. We arrived at Pantiacolla later in the afternoon and birded up until 6pm. The highlight at Pantiacolla was the Long-tailed Potoo which was on its nest with a chick. Not much of a nest, the bird (an oversized frogmouth) just clings to the trunk of a tree.

Long-tailed Potoo with chick

At Amazonia I saw 53 birds and at Pantiacolla 33 birds, including birds seen on the river, with a total of 80 birds for the day. Even though Pantiacolla was not far away from Amazonia there was very little overlap in the bird species seen for the day.

5th October – On today’s agenda was a full day of birding around various areas close to the Pantiacolla Lodge from 6am to 6pm with a midday break for about four hours.

Stick Insect

The Pantiacolla Lodge area has extensive patches of bamboo, where you can see specialities as Rufous-headed Woodpecker, Bamboo Antshrike, Manu Antbird and White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant. It has good primary forest, which has less birds than in the secondary growth, but a lot more than you encounter at other comparable places. Pantiacolla is one of the best places to see a range of Tinamou and Antbird, two typical rainforest families.


Capped Heron

The morning birding was productive with 41 birds seen and the afternoon slower with only 25 birds seen, with a total of 62 for the day. Some of the highlights were Little Tinamou, Spix’s Guan, Festive Coquette and White-throated Toucan plus Sand-colored and Ladder-tailed Nightjar on the river at sunset. There were a host of bamboo specials seen such as Antshrike (2 species), Antwren, Antbird (4 species) and Antpitta. Although David Geale tried hard, I don’t think I ever got too excited about these “ant” birds.

6th October – Today’s agenda was another full day of birding around various areas close to the Pantiacolla Lodge from 5am to 5pm with a midday break for about two hours.

Typical forest view from river

The morning birding was productive with 48 birds seen and the afternoon slower with only 19 birds seen, with a total of 61 for the day. Again there were good birds seen although in the afternoon I wandered off to do my own birding, hence the lower number of birds identified.

Birding in the forests of the Amazon basin was quite pleasant and I felt quite safe birding by myself. There were very few mosquitoes around and to date we hadn’t seen any snakes, poisonous frogs, army ants, piranha fish or other nasties that you see on those David Attenborough films? In fact the forests of the Amazon were similar to the forests up Cape York in Australia.

Interesting Beetle

However that evening we were awakened to much excitement from our South African neighbours. The chalets we were staying in each had a walkway to the bathroom which was a little hut raised off the ground. One of the other party had visited the toilet in the dark and thought that there was a towel hanging over the door, preventing it closing. So he pulled on the “towel” and got a shock because it hissed at him. He shot off into the toilet and was trapped. His female travelling companion had to rescue him and took the photo of a large yellow-coloured python, most likely an Amazon Tree Boa.

One of the features of the lodges in the Amazon is that none provide lighting after dark, so all you have is some candles and torches. In the evening the birders sit in the dark, except for some candles or head torches, trying to record what they have seen for the day. None of the lodges provide hot water so it’s cold showers and no shaving, for me at least.

7th October – Today we left Pantiacolla Lodge in the morning and headed further down the river to the Manu Wildlife Centre (MWC) where we were to spend the next four nights.

Our River Transport

MWC was quite a bit different to the other lodges and is a very popular location for other tour groups, having an extensive trail system and a canopy tower. There is also the option to visit the nearby clay-lick for macaws at Blanquillo and the oxbow lake at Cocha Blanco that hosts Giant Otter. Many visitors to MWC take the flight from Cusco to Boca Manu and then the short 2 hour boat ride. This is a good option for those with limited time, as MWC offers some of the best birding and mammal viewing, that we had on our trip.  The accommodation and dining facilities at MWC were excellent.  

For the first time on the trip we had to share the lodge with other birders, which was only really evident at dinner time when the birding groups would gather to go through their bird lists for the day and then have dinner. In addition advance bookings had to be made to visit certain birding sites to avoid too many birders at any one site.


Hoatzin

The morning birding was productive with 54 birds seen at Pantiacolla and on the river. The afternoon at MWC was also good with 31 birds seen, the total for the day was 70 birds. The trip down the river produced some good birds such as the Giant Potoo and about 30 Sand-colored Nighthawk roosting on driftwood in the river.

By now the river currents had slowed down considerably and the river was widening as we progressed down. Trees that had been washed down from the upper reaches of the river were jammed up with other trees and debris, which eventually formed islands as sand collected. Over time these islands re-established vegetation and formed forests. Unfortunately poorly regulated (or illegal?) alluvial gold mining operations became more evident as we progressed further down the river. In addition, clearings were also seen when there had been recent logging.   

Alluvial Gold Mining

8th October – Today we travelled down the river to visit the clay-lick at Blanquillo, leaving at 5am and returning at midday. The conditions were cool and overcast with some rain. Despite the rain we had an excellent morning at the clay-lick and I saw 69 birds there. I didn’t do any birding in the afternoon and caught up on emails and bird lists. This was the first place since leaving Ollantaytambo that I had internet access.


Sungrebe

At the clay-lick there were large numbers of parrots and macaws, such as Scarlet Macaw (2), Blue-and-yellow Macaw (14), Red-and-green Macaw 40), Orange-cheeked Parrot (200), Yellow-crowned Amazon 50), Mealy Amazon (120), Tui Parakeet (2) and Blue-headed Parrot (170). It’s fantastic to see these macaws in the wild.


Red-and-green Macaw

There were plenty of other good birds to see, however highlights were the Black Skimmer on the river and the Jabiru (not the Australian Jabiru!).


Jabiru

9th October – Today we started off with some birding in the morning around MWC and then travelled down the river again to Cocha Blanco, this time to visit the Blanco oxbow lake.

Blanco Oxbow Lake

I went off birding by myself in the morning and had some good bird sightings in the bamboo thickets plus some great mammal sightings, including Brown-mantled Tamarin, Emperor Tamarin, Tufted Capuchin, Common Squirrel Monkey and Black Agouti. I also heard Bolivian Red Howler which make an incredible noise in the forest, yet it’s only one howler monkey making the calls.  I tried to track down the howler monkeys but was not successful. Yvonne saw a Neotropical River Otter in the creek at the lodge, which was very nice.

Neotropical River Otter

Some good birds for the morning included Undulated Tinamou, Ivory-billed Aracari, White-fronted Nunbird and Plum-throated Cotinga. The Tinamou tend to be quite shy however if you walk quietly in the forest you can get fairly close.


Snail Kite

In the afternoon we visited the Blanco oxbow lake and were taken on a boat around the lakes. The boat was paddled by local guides which enabled us to get up close to the birds. We saw the only piranha of the trip being eaten by a Cocoi Heron. The oxbow lake is an entrapped body of water, similar to a billabong, and this is where one can find the piranha and Giant Otter.  

Boat-billed Heron

The birdlife at the oxbow lake and on the path from the main river to the lake was excellent with highlights including Snail Kite, Boatbilled Heron, Horned Screamer, Blue-throated Piping Guan, Sungebe and Limpkin. A couple of Black-billed Seed Finch were also seen in the grassy margin of the lake which is a rare and localised bird for Peru.    

Wattled Jacana

The morning birding was good with 26 birds identified by myself, however the afternoon was excellent with 62 birds seen, giving a total of 85 for the day.

10th October – Today we booked the canopy tower for our group for the morning. We left MWC at 5:30am for a fairly short walk to the tower. Birding however was quite slow so the rest of the group went off with the guide and I stayed behind. The birdlife picked up a bit when the rest of the group had left and I had good views of Curl-crested Aracari, Bare-necked Fruitcrow, Bluish-fronted Jacamar and Black-fronted Nunbird. On the way back to MWC I had good views of Cream-colored Woodpecker.   

Cream-colored Woodpecker

I saw 26 birds for the morning and didn’t do any further birding for the day. 

We did have some excitement in the afternoon when a snake was spotted outside the dining area. It looked to be some sort of tree snake and was a beautiful looking snake, green with a yellow head and red tongue. Must have been at least 2 or 3m long and could move very fast.




Later on that day a similar snake was spotted in a bungalow, it did a hop skip and jump over one of our party and then had to be removed from the unit.




11th October – Today we left MWC at 6am for the long boat ride down to Laberinto, which took the good part of the day. We arrived at Laberinto at 3pm and then took a taxi to Puerto Maldonado.  

The boat ride produced a few new birds with the highlight being a Roseate Spoonbill. A tern was seen briefly by myself and David Geale as we arrived into Laberinto and this was thought to be a Carbot’s Tern, which would be a rare/uncommon passage migrant.

The taxi ride into Puerto Maldonado produced a few more birds with the highlight being a White-tailed Kite, this being very similar to the Black-shouldered Kite seen in Australia and the Black-winged Kite seen in Africa.

Puerto Maldonado is a tatty run-down town with police all over the place and the hotel was not much better. It’s only good for an overnight stay however the birding in the area can be rewarding.


Our taxi taking us to dinner

12th October – As our flight from Puerto Maldonado to Cusco and then Lima was only leaving at 2pm, I organised an early morning birding trip with David Geale.

We headed out to some nice bush just outside on the town and came across a fish farm. This was a new site for David and it turned out to be some of the best birding of the trip. Between 5:30am and 8am I saw 59 birds including a lifer for David, which was the Yellow-chinned Spinetail. According to the field guide there is only one sight record for Madre de Dios and we managed to get excellent views of the yellow chin and photographs.     

Other excellent birds seen were Brazilian Teal (recent coloniser from Brazil and is not in the field guide), Lesser Yellowlegs, Baird, Solitary, Stilt and Pectoral Sandpiper, Rufous-sided Crake and Mato Grosso Flatbill (subspecies of the Yellow-olive Flatbill).

Then it was back to the hotel to clean-up before heading off to the airport. We arrived in Lima at 5pm and took a taxi to Second Home in Barranco (www.secondhomeperu.com), which is a lovely place to stay overlooking the coast. There are plenty of good restaurants close by and we went out to a good Italian restaurant in the evening.

Our room at Second Home in Barranco

13th October – Off to the airport for an early morning flight at 8:35am to Buenos Aires in Argentina. Had great views of the Andes as we crossed them quite a bit south of Lima, the plane having to reduce fuel load before making the crossing. The trip to Argentina is covered in a separate trip report.  

Conclusions

We had a great trip to Peru and were very well looked after by David Geale and his supporting crew. If we visit Peru again we will probably organise a private tour which would give us more flexibility. I still want to visit Northern Peru area for a couple of weeks and also do a pelagic trip, although organising pelagic trips is not straight-forward.

As regards the birds, I saw just over 500 birds and another 11 were identified by call. Most of these were lifers for me and this was a good bird list thanks to the skill and efforts of David Geale.

The full list of the 512  birds seen and heard during the trip, including subspecies according to the IOC taxonomy, is as follows:
 
Tinamiformes

Tinamous (Tinamidae)

Grey Tinamou [sp] (Tinamus tao)

Cinereous Tinamou (Crypturellus cinereus)

Little Tinamou [sp] (Crypturellus soui)

Undulated Tinamou [undulatus] (Crypturellus undulatus undulatus)

Galliformes

Chachalacas, Curassows & Guans (Cracidae)

Speckled Chachalaca [sp] (Ortalis guttata)

Andean Guan [sp] (Penelope montagnii)

Spix's Guan [sp] (Penelope jacquacu)

Blue-throated Piping Guan [sp] (Pipile cumanensis)

Razor-billed Curassow (Mitu tuberosum)

New World Quail (Odontophoridae)

Stripe-faced Wood Quail (Odontophorus balliviani)

Starred Wood Quail (Odontophorus stellatus)

Anseriformes

Screamers (Anhimidae)

Horned Screamer (Anhima cornuta)

Ducks, Geese & swans (Anatidae)

Torrent Duck [sp] (Merganetta armata)

Orinoco Goose (Neochen jubata)

Andean Goose (Chloephaga melanoptera)

Muscovy Duck (Cairina moschata)

Brazilian Teal [sp] (Amazonetta brasiliensis)

Crested Duck [sp] (Lophonetta specularioides)

Cinnamon Teal [sp] (Anas cyanoptera)

Yellow-billed Teal [sp] (Anas flavirostris)

Sharp-winged Speckled Teal (Anas flavirostris oxyptera)

Puna Teal (Anas puna)

Podicipediformes

Grebes (Podicipedidae)

Least Grebe [sp] (Tachybaptus dominicus)

Ciconiiformes

Storks (Ciconiidae)

Jabiru (Jabiru mycteria)

Pelecaniformes

Ibises, Spoonbills (Threskiornithidae)

Andean Ibis (Theristicus melanopis branickii)

Green Ibis (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)

Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi)

Roseate Spoonbill (Platalea ajaja)

Herons, Bitterns (Ardeidae)

Rufescent Tiger Heron [sp] (Tigrisoma lineatum)

Fasciated Tiger Heron [sp] (Tigrisoma fasciatum)

Boat-billed Heron [sp] (Cochlearius cochlearius)

Black-crowned Night Heron [sp] (Nycticorax nycticorax)

Striated Heron [sp] (Butorides striata)

Western Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)

Cocoi Heron (Ardea cocoi)

American Great Egret (Ardea alba egretta)

Capped Heron (Pilherodius pileatus)

Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea)

Snowy Egret [sp] (Egretta thula)

Suliformes

Cormorants, Shags (Phalacrocoracidae)

Neotropic Cormorant [sp] (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)

Anhingas, Darters (Anhingidae)

Anhinga [sp] (Anhinga anhinga)

ACCIPITRIFORMES

New World Vultures (Cathartidae)

Turkey Vulture [sp] (Cathartes aura)

Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (Cathartes melambrotus)

Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)

King Vulture (Sarcoramphus papa)

Ospreys (Pandionidae)

Western Osprey [sp] (Pandion haliaetus)

Kites, Hawks & Eagles (Accipitridae)

Hook-billed Kite [sp] (Chondrohierax uncinatus)

Swallow-tailed Kite [sp] (Elanoides forficatus)

White-tailed Kite [sp] (Elanus leucurus)

Snail Kite [sp] (Rostrhamus sociabilis)

Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea)

Plain-breasted Hawk (Accipiter ventralis)

Great Black Hawk [sp] (Buteogallus urubitinga)

Black-collared Hawk [sp] (Busarellus nigricollis)

Roadside Hawk [sp] (Buteo magnirostris)

White-rumped Hawk (Buteo leucorrhous)

White-throated Hawk (Buteo albigula)

Black-and-chestnut Eagle (Spizaetus isidori)

Falconiformes

Caracaras, Falcons (Falconidae)

Black Caracara (Daptrius ater)

Red-throated Caracara (Ibycter americanus)

Mountain Caracara (Phalcoboenus megalopterus)

American Kestrel [sp] (Falco sparverius)

Bat Falcon [sp] (Falco rufigularis)

EURYPYGIFORMES

Sunbittern (Eurypygidae)

Sunbittern [sp] (Eurypyga helias)

Gruiformes

Finfoots (Heliornithidae)

Sungrebe (Heliornis fulica)

Rails, Crakes & Coots (Rallidae)

Rufous-sided Crake [oenops] (Laterallus melanophaius oenops)

Plumbeous Rail [sp] (Pardirallus sanguinolentus)

Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio martinicus)

Common Gallinule [sp] (Gallinula galeata)

Andean Coot [sp] (Fulica ardesiaca)

Trumpeters (Psophiidae)

Pale-winged Trumpeter [sp] (Psophia leucoptera)

Limpkin (Aramidae)

Limpkin [sp] (Aramus guarauna)

Charadriiformes

Stilts, Avocets (Recurvirostridae)

Black-necked Stilt [sp] (Himantopus mexicanus)

White-backed Stilt (Himantopus melanurus)

Plovers (Charadriidae)

Southern Lapwing [sp] (Vanellus chilensis)

Andean Lapwing (Vanellus resplendens)

Collared Plover (Charadrius collaris)

Pied Plover (Hoploxypterus cayanus)

Jacanas (Jacanidae)

Wattled Jacana [sp] (Jacana jacana)

Sandpipers, Snipes (Scolopacidae)

Andean Snipe (Gallinago jamesoni)

Hudsonian Godwit (Limosa haemastica)

Greater Yellowlegs (Tringa melanoleuca)

Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes)

Solitary Sandpiper [sp] (Tringa solitaria)

Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis macularius)

Baird's Sandpiper (Calidris bairdii)

Pectoral Sandpiper (Calidris melanotos)

Stilt Sandpiper (Calidris himantopus)

Wilson's Phalarope (Phalaropus tricolor)

Gulls, Terns & Skimmers (Laridae)

Black Skimmer [sp] (Rynchops niger)

Andean Gull (Chroicocephalus serranus)

Cabot's Tern (Thalasseus acuflavidus acuflavidus)

Yellow-billed Tern (Sternula superciliaris)

Common Tern [sp] (Sterna hirundo)

Large-billed Tern [sp] (Phaetusa simplex)

Columbiformes

Doves and Pigeons (Columbidae)

Feral Pigeon (Columba livia ''feral'')

Band-tailed Pigeon [sp] (Patagioenas fasciata)

Pale-vented Pigeon [sp] (Patagioenas cayennensis)

Plumbeous Pigeon [sp] (Patagioenas plumbea)

Ruddy Pigeon [sp] (Patagioenas subvinacea)

Eared Dove [sp] (Zenaida auriculata)

West Peruvian Dove (Zenaida meloda)

Ruddy Ground Dove [sp] (Columbina talpacoti)

Grey-fronted Dove [sp] (Leptotila rufaxilla)

Ruddy Quail-dove [sp] (Geotrygon montana)

Psittaciformes

Parrots and Macaws (Psittacidae)

Blue-and-yellow Macaw (Ara ararauna)

Scarlet Macaw [sp] (Ara macao)

Red-and-green Macaw (Ara chloropterus)

Chestnut-fronted Macaw [sp] (Ara severus)

Red-bellied Macaw (Orthopsittaca manilata)

Blue-headed Macaw (Primolius couloni)

Mitred Parakeet [sp] (Aratinga mitrata)

White-eyed Parakeet [sp] (Aratinga leucophthalma)

Dusky-headed Parakeet (Aratinga weddellii)

Cobalt-winged Parakeet [sp] (Brotogeris cyanoptera)

Tui Parakeet [sp] (Brotogeris sanctithomae)

Orange-cheeked Parrot [sp] (Pyrilia barrabandi)

Blue-headed Parrot [sp] (Pionus menstruus)

Yellow-crowned Amazon [sp] (Amazona ochrocephala)

Scaly-naped Amazon [sp] (Amazona mercenarius)

Mealy Amazon [sp] (Amazona farinosa)

Opisthocomiformes

Hoatzin (Opisthocomidae)

Hoatzin (Opisthocomus hoazin)

Cuculiformes

Cuckoos (Cuculidae)

Greater Ani (Crotophaga major)

Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani)

Squirrel Cuckoo [sp] (Piaya cayana)

Dark-billed Cuckoo (Coccyzus melacoryphus)

Strigiformes

Owls (Strigidae)

Tawny-bellied Screech Owl [sp] (Megascops watsonii)

Amazonian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium hardyi)

Caprimulgiformes

Potoos (Nyctibiidae)

Great Potoo [sp] (Nyctibius grandis)

Long-tailed Potoo [sp] (Nyctibius aethereus)

Nightjars (Caprimulgidae)

Sand-colored Nighthawk [sp] (Chordeiles rupestris)

Common Nighthawk [sp] (Chordeiles minor)

Ladder-tailed Nightjar [sp] (Hydropsalis climacocerca)

Apodiformes

Swifts (Apodidae)

Chestnut-collared Swift [sp] (Streptoprocne rutila)

White-collared Swift [sp] (Streptoprocne zonaris)

Andean Swift [sp] (Aeronautes andecolus)

Neotropical Palm Swift [sp] (Tachornis squamata)

Hummingbirds (Trochilidae)

Rufous-breasted Hermit [sp] (Glaucis hirsutus)

Reddish Hermit [sp] (Phaethornis ruber)

Grey-breasted Sabrewing [sp] (Campylopterus largipennis)

White-necked Jacobin [sp] (Florisuga mellivora)

Sparkling Violetear [sp] (Colibri coruscans)

Violet-headed Hummingbird [sp] (Klais guimeti)

Rufous-crested Coquette [sp] (Lophornis delattrei)

Festive Coquette [sp] (Lophornis chalybeus)

Wire-crested Thorntail (Discosura popelairii)

Blue-tailed Emerald [sp] (Chlorostilbon mellisugus)

Fork-tailed Woodnymph [sp] (Thalurania furcata)

White-chinned Sapphire [sp] (Hylocharis cyanus)

Golden-tailed Sapphire [sp] (Chrysuronia oenone)

Many-spotted Hummingbird (Taphrospilus hypostictus)

Sapphire-spangled Emerald [sp] (Amazilia lactea)

Speckled Hummingbird [sp] (Adelomyia melanogenys)

Gould's Jewelfront (Heliodoxa aurescens)

Violet-fronted Brilliant [sp] (Heliodoxa leadbeateri)

Shining Sunbeam [sp] (Aglaeactis cupripennis)

White-tufted Sunbeam [sp] (Aglaeactis castelnaudii)

Bronzy Inca [sp] (Coeligena coeligena)

Violet-throated Starfrontlet [sp] (Coeligena violifer)

Sword-billed Hummingbird (Ensifera ensifera)

Great Sapphirewing [sp] (Pterophanes cyanopterus)

Giant Hummingbird [sp] (Patagona gigas)

Amethyst-throated Sunangel [sp] (Heliangelus amethysticollis)

Coppery-naped Puffleg [sapphiropygia] (Eriocnemis luciani sapphiropygia)

Buff-thighed Puffleg [sp] (Haplophaedia assimilis)

Booted Racket-tail [sp] (Ocreatus underwoodii)

Green-tailed Trainbearer [sp] (Lesbia nuna)

Purple-backed Thornbill [sp] (Ramphomicron microrhynchum)

Bearded Mountaineer [sp] (Oreonympha nobilis)

Tyrian Metaltail [sp] (Metallura tyrianthina)

Scaled Metaltail [sp] (Metallura aeneocauda)

Rufous-capped Thornbill (Chalcostigma ruficeps)

Blue-mantled Thornbill [sp] (Chalcostigma stanleyi)

Long-tailed Sylph [sp] (Aglaiocercus kingii)

Wedge-billed Hummingbird [sp] (Schistes geoffroyi)

White-bellied Woodstar (Chaetocercus mulsant)

Trogoniformes

Trogons and Quetzals (Trogonidae)

Black-tailed Trogon [sp] (Trogon melanurus)

Black-tailed Trogon [eumorphus] (Trogon melanurus eumorphus)

Blue-crowned Trogon [sp] (Trogon curucui)

Masked Trogon [sp] (Trogon personatus)

Coraciiformes

Kingfishers (Alcedinidae)

Green-and-rufous Kingfisher (Chloroceryle inda)

Amazon Kingfisher (Chloroceryle amazona)

Ringed Kingfisher [sp] (Megaceryle torquata)

Motmots (Momotidae)

Amazonian Motmot [sp] (Momotus momota)

Broad-billed Motmot [sp] (Electron platyrhynchum)

Piciformes

Jacamars (Galbulidae)

Purus Jacamar (Galbalcyrhynchus purusianus)

White-throated Jacamar (Brachygalba albogularis)

Bluish-fronted Jacamar (Galbula cyanescens)

Puffbirds (Bucconidae)

Chestnut-capped Puffbird (Bucco macrodactylus)

Striolated Puffbird [sp] (Nystalus striolatus)

Rufous-capped Nunlet [sp] (Nonnula ruficapilla)

Black-fronted Nunbird [sp] (Monasa nigrifrons)

White-fronted Nunbird [sp] (Monasa morphoeus)

Swallow-winged Puffbird [sp] (Chelidoptera tenebrosa)

New World Barbets (Capitonidae)

Scarlet-hooded Barbet (Eubucco tucinkae)

Versicolored Barbet [sp] (Eubucco versicolor)

Toucans (Ramphastidae)

Black-throated Toucanet [sp] (Aulacorhynchus atrogularis)

Chestnut-tipped Toucanet [derbianus] (Aulacorhynchus derbianus derbianus)

Blue-banded Toucanet (Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis)

Ivory-billed Aracari [sp] (Pteroglossus azara)

Chestnut-eared Aracari [sp] (Pteroglossus castanotis)

Curl-crested Aracari (Pteroglossus beauharnaesii)

Grey-breasted Mountain Toucan [sp] (Andigena hypoglauca)

Channel-billed Toucan [sp] (Ramphastos vitellinus)

White-throated Toucan [sp] (Ramphastos tucanus)

Woodpeckers (Picidae)

Fine-barred Piculet (Picumnus subtilis)

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker (Melanerpes cruentatus)

Little Woodpecker [sp] (Veniliornis passerinus)

Golden-olive Woodpecker [sp] (Colaptes rubiginosus)

Andean Flicker [sp] (Colaptes rupicola)

Cream-colored Woodpecker [sp] (Celeus flavus)

Red-necked Woodpecker [sp] (Campephilus rubricollis)

Crimson-crested Woodpecker [sp] (Campephilus melanoleucos)

Passeriformes

Ovenbirds (Furnariidae)

Cream-winged Cinclodes [sp] (Cinclodes albiventris)

Pale-legged Hornero [sp] (Furnarius leucopus)

Tawny Tit-spinetail (Leptasthenura yanacensis)

White-browed Tit-spinetail (Leptasthenura xenothorax)

Puna Thistletail (Asthenes helleri)

Rusty-fronted Canastero (Asthenes ottonis)

Line-fronted Canastero [sp] (Asthenes urubambensis)

Junin Canastero (Asthenes virgata)

Scribble-tailed Canastero (Asthenes maculicauda)

Azara's Spinetail [sp] (Synallaxis azarae)

Cabanis's Spinetail [sp] (Synallaxis cabanisi)

Plain-crowned Spinetail [sp] (Synallaxis gujanensis)

Marcapata Spinetail [sp] (Cranioleuca marcapatae)

Creamy-crested Spinetail [sp] (Cranioleuca albicapilla)

Yellow-chinned Spinetail [sp] (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus)

Wren-like Rushbird [sp] (Phleocryptes melanops)

Rusty-winged Barbtail [sp] (Premnornis guttuliger)

Spotted Barbtail [sp] (Premnoplex brunnescens)

Pearled Treerunner [sp] (Margarornis squamiger)

Streaked Tuftedcheek [sp] (Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii)

Montane Foliage-gleaner [sp] (Anabacerthia striaticollis)

Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner [sp] (Syndactyla rufosuperciliata)

Eastern Woodhaunter [subulatus] (Hyloctistes subulatus subulatus)

Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner [sp] (Philydor erythrocercum)

Bamboo Foliage-gleaner (Anabazenops dorsalis)

Striped Treehunter [sp] (Thripadectes holostictus)

Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner [sp] (Automolus rufipileatus)

Tawny-throated Leaftosser [sp] (Sclerurus mexicanus)

Plain Xenops [sp] (Xenops minutus)

Streaked Xenops [sp] (Xenops rutilans)

Plain-brown Woodcreeper [sp] (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)

Olivaceous Woodcreeper [sp] (Sittasomus griseicapillus)

Wedge-billed Woodcreeper [sp] (Glyphorynchus spirurus)

Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper [sp] (Dendrexetastes rufigula)

Straight-billed Woodcreeper [sp] (Dendroplex picus)

Ocellated Woodcreeper [sp] (Xiphorhynchus ocellatus)

Elegant Woodcreeper [sp] (Xiphorhynchus elegans)

Lafresnaye's Woodcreeper [guttatoides] (Xiphorhynchus guttatus guttatoides)

Olive-backed Woodcreeper [sp] (Xiphorhynchus triangularis)

Montane Woodcreeper [sp] (Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger)

Lineated Woodcreeper [sp] (Lepidocolaptes albolineatus)

Red-billed Scythebill [sp] (Campylorhamphus trochilirostris)

Typical Antbirds (Thamnophilidae)

Fasciated Antshrike [sp] (Cymbilaimus lineatus)

Bamboo Antshrike (Cymbilaimus sanctaemariae)

Great Antshrike [sp] (Taraba major)

Barred Antshrike [sp] (Thamnophilus doliatus)

Plain-winged Antshrike [sp] (Thamnophilus schistaceus)

Bluish-slate Antshrike (Thamnomanes schistogynus)

Spot-winged Antshrike [sp] (Pygiptila stellaris)

White-eyed Antwren [sp] (Epinecrophylla leucophthalma)

Rufous-tailed Antwren [sp] (Epinecrophylla erythrura)

Pygmy Antwren (Myrmotherula brachyura)

Amazonian Streaked Antwren (Myrmotherula multostriata)

White-flanked Antwren [sp] (Myrmotherula axillaris)

Grey Antwren [sp] (Myrmotherula menetriesii)

Striated Antbird [sp] (Drymophila devillei)

Yellow-rumped Antwren (Terenura sharpei)

Grey Antbird [sp] (Cercomacra cinerascens)

Blackish Antbird [fuscicauda] (Cercomacra nigrescens fuscicauda)

Black Antbird [sp] (Cercomacra serva)

Manu Antbird (Cercomacra manu)

White-backed Fire-eye [sp] (Pyriglena leuconota)

White-browed Antbird [sp] (Myrmoborus leucophrys)

Yellow-breasted Warbling Antbird [sp] (Hypocnemis subflava)

Band-tailed Antbird [sp] (Hypocnemoides maculicauda)

White-lined Antbird (Percnostola lophotes)

Brownish-headed Antbird (Schistocichla brunneiceps)

Black-throated Antbird [sp] (Myrmeciza atrothorax)

White-throated Antbird [sp] (Gymnopithys salvini)

Antthrushes (Formicariidae)

Black-faced Antthrush [sp] (Formicarius analis)

Rufous-breasted Antthrush [sp] (Formicarius rufipectus)

Antpittas (Grallariidae)

Scaled Antpitta [sp] (Grallaria guatimalensis)

Stripe-headed Antpitta [sp] (Grallaria andicolus)

Red-and-white Antpitta (Grallaria erythroleuca)

Thrush-like Antpitta [sp] (Myrmothera campanisona)

Gnateaters (Conopophagidae)

Ash-throated Gnateater (Conopophaga peruviana)

Tapaculos (Rhinocryptidae)

Rusty-belted Tapaculo [sp] (Liosceles thoracicus)

Trilling Tapaculo (Scytalopus parvirostris)

Tyrant Flycatchers (Tyrannidae)

Large Elaenia (Elaenia spectabilis)

Small-billed Elaenia (Elaenia parvirostris)

Sierran Elaenia [sp] (Elaenia pallatangae)

White-lored Tyrannulet (Ornithion inerme)

White-throated Tyrannulet [sp] (Mecocerculus leucophrys)

White-banded Tyrannulet [sp] (Mecocerculus stictopterus)

Ash-breasted Tit-tyrant [sp] (Anairetes alpinus)

Tufted Tit-tyrant [sp] (Anairetes parulus)

Unstreaked Tit-tyrant [sp] (Anairetes agraphia)

Mouse-colored Tyrannulet [wagae] (Phaeomyias murina wagae)

Subtropical Doradito (Pseudocolopteryx acutipennis)

Ringed Antpipit [sp] (Corythopis torquatus)

Bolivian Tyrannulet [sp] (Zimmerius bolivianus)

Variegated Bristle Tyrant [sp] (Pogonotriccus poecilotis)

Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet (Phylloscartes parkeri)

Streak-necked Flycatcher [sp] (Mionectes striaticollis)

Olive-striped Flycatcher [sp] (Mionectes olivaceus)

Ochre-bellied Flycatcher [sp] (Mionectes oleagineus)

Sepia-capped Flycatcher [sp] (Leptopogon amaurocephalus)

Slaty-capped Flycatcher [sp] (Leptopogon superciliaris)

Inca Flycatcher (Leptopogon taczanowskii)

Amazonian Scrub Flycatcher (Sublegatus obscurior)

Plain Inezia (Inezia inornata)

Bran-colored Flycatcher [sp] (Myiophobus fasciatus)

Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher (Nephelomyias ochraceiventris)

Many-colored Rush Tyrant [sp] (Tachuris rubrigastra)

Black-throated Tody-tyrant [sp] (Hemitriccus granadensis)

Short-tailed Pygmy Tyrant [sp] (Myiornis ecaudatus)

Scale-crested Pygmy Tyrant [sp] (Lophotriccus pileatus)

White-cheeked Tody-flycatcher (Poecilotriccus albifacies)

Rusty-fronted Tody-flycatcher [sp] (Poecilotriccus latirostris)

Black-backed Tody-flycatcher (Poecilotriccus pulchellus)

Olivaceous Flatbill [sp] (Rhynchocyclus olivaceus)

Fulvous-breasted Flatbill (Rhynchocyclus fulvipectus)

Yellow-olive Flatbill [sp] (Tolmomyias sulphurescens)

Mato Grosso Flatbill (Tolmomyias sulphurescens pallescens)

Olive-faced Flatbill [zimmeri] (Tolmomyias viridiceps zimmeri)

White-crested Spadebill [sp] (Platyrinchus platyrhynchos)

Cinnamon Flycatcher [sp] (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus)

Black Phoebe [sp] (Sayornis nigricans)

Western Wood Pewee [sp] (Contopus sordidulus)

Eastern Wood Pewee (Contopus virens)

Vermilion Flycatcher [sp] (Pyrocephalus rubinus)

Andean Negrito (Lessonia oreas)

White-winged Black Tyrant [sp] (Knipolegus aterrimus)

Drab Water Tyrant (Ochthornis littoralis)

Little Ground Tyrant (Muscisaxicola fluviatilis)

Taczanowski's Ground Tyrant (Muscisaxicola griseus)

Rufous-naped Ground Tyrant [sp] (Muscisaxicola rufivertex)

White-browed Ground Tyrant (Muscisaxicola albilora)

Red-rumped Bush Tyrant [sp] (Cnemarchus erythropygius)

Rufous-webbed Bush Tyrant [sp] (Polioxolmis rufipennis)

Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant [sp] (Ochthoeca rufipectoralis)

Brown-backed Chat-tyrant [sp] (Ochthoeca fumicolor)

White-browed Chat-tyrant [sp] (Ochthoeca leucophrys)

Long-tailed Tyrant [sp] (Colonia colonus)

Piratic Flycatcher [sp] (Legatus leucophaius)

Rusty-margined Flycatcher [sp] (Myiozetetes cayanensis)

Social Flycatcher [sp] (Myiozetetes similis)

Grey-capped Flycatcher [sp] (Myiozetetes granadensis)

Great Kiskadee [sp] (Pitangus sulphuratus)

Lesser Kiskadee [sp] (Philohydor lictor)

Lemon-browed Flycatcher [sp] (Conopias cinchoneti)

Golden-crowned Flycatcher [sp] (Myiodynastes chrysocephalus)

Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher (Myiodynastes luteiventris)

Streaked Flycatcher [sp] (Myiodynastes maculatus)

Boat-billed Flycatcher [sp] (Megarynchus pitangua)

Sulphury Flycatcher (Tyrannopsis sulphurea)

Variegated Flycatcher [sp] (Empidonomus varius)

Crowned Slaty Flycatcher [sp] (Griseotyrannus aurantioatrocristatus)

Tropical Kingbird [sp] (Tyrannus melancholicus)

Eastern Kingbird (Tyrannus tyrannus)

Dusky-capped Flycatcher [sp] (Myiarchus tuberculifer)

Short-crested Flycatcher [sp] (Myiarchus ferox)

Brown-crested Flycatcher [sp] (Myiarchus tyrannulus)

Large-headed Flatbill [sp] (Ramphotrigon megacephalum)

Dusky-tailed Flatbill (Ramphotrigon fuscicauda)

Cotingas (Cotingidae)

Red-crested Cotinga (Ampelion rubrocristatus)

Barred Fruiteater [sp] (Pipreola arcuata)

Andean Cock-of-the-rock [sp] (Rupicola peruvianus)

Plum-throated Cotinga (Cotinga maynana)

Bare-necked Fruitcrow (Gymnoderus foetidus)

Manakins (Pipridae)

Dwarf Tyrant-manakin (Tyranneutes stolzmanni)

Blue-crowned Manakin [sp] (Lepidothrix coronata)

Yungas Manakin (Chiroxiphia boliviana)

Tityras (Tityridae)

Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher [sp] (Terenotriccus erythrurus)

Black-tailed Tityra [sp] (Tityra cayana)

Masked Tityra [sp] (Tityra semifasciata)

White-winged Becard [sp] (Pachyramphus polychopterus)

Pink-throated Becard (Pachyramphus minor)

Vireos (Vireonidae)

Red-eyed Vireo [sp] (Vireo olivaceus)

Yellow-green Vireo [sp] (Vireo flavoviridis)

Crows and Jays (Corvidae)

Violaceous Jay [sp] (Cyanocorax violaceus)

Purplish Jay (Cyanocorax cyanomelas)

Swallows and Martins (Hirundinidae)

White-winged Swallow (Tachycineta albiventer)

Brown-chested Martin [sp] (Progne tapera)

Blue-and-white Swallow [sp] (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca)

Brown-bellied Swallow [sp] (Notiochelidon murina)

Pale-footed Swallow (Notiochelidon flavipes)

White-banded Swallow (Atticora fasciata)

Southern Rough-winged Swallow [sp] (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)

Barn Swallow [sp] (Hirundo rustica)

Donacobius (Donacobiidae)

Black-capped Donacobius [sp] (Donacobius atricapilla)

Wrens (Troglodytidae)

Thrush-like Wren [sp] (Campylorhynchus turdinus)

Grey-mantled Wren [sp] (Odontorchilus branickii)

Sedge Wren [sp] (Cistothorus platensis)

Inca Wren (Pheugopedius eisenmanni)

Moustached Wren [sp] (Pheugopedius genibarbis)

House Wren [sp] (Troglodytes aedon)

Mountain Wren [sp] (Troglodytes solstitialis)

Grey-breasted Wood Wren [sp] (Henicorhina leucophrys)

Southern Nightingale-wren [sp] (Microcerculus marginatus)

Musician Wren [sp] (Cyphorhinus arada)

Gnatcatchers (Polioptilidae)

Tawny-faced Gnatwren [sp] (Microbates cinereiventris)

Thrushes (Turdidae)

Andean Solitaire [sp] (Myadestes ralloides)

White-eared Solitaire (Entomodestes leucotis)

Great Thrush [sp] (Turdus fuscater)

Chiguanco Thrush [sp] (Turdus chiguanco)

Creamy-bellied Thrush (Turdus amaurochalinus)

Black-billed Thrush [sp] (Turdus ignobilis)

Finches, Siskins and Crossbills (Fringillidae)

White-lored Euphonia [sp] (Euphonia chrysopasta)

Orange-bellied Euphonia [sp] (Euphonia xanthogaster)

Rufous-bellied Euphonia [sp] (Euphonia rufiventris)

Blue-naped Chlorophonia [sp] (Chlorophonia cyanea)

Hooded Siskin [sp] (Carduelis magellanica)

Olivaceous Siskin (Carduelis olivacea)

New World Warblers (Parulidae)

Tropical Parula [sp] (Setophaga pitiayumi)

Citrine Warbler [sp] (Myiothlypis luteoviridis)

Pale-legged Warbler [sp] (Myiothlypis signata)

Two-banded Warbler [sp] (Myiothlypis bivittata)

Cuzco Warbler (Myiothlypis chrysogaster)

Russet-crowned Warbler [sp] (Myiothlypis coronata)

Three-striped Warbler [sp] (Basileuterus tristriatus)

Slate-throated Whitestart [sp] (Myioborus miniatus)

Spectacled Whitestart [sp] (Myioborus melanocephalus)

Oropendolas, Orioles and New World Blackbirds (Icteridae)

Casqued Oropendola (Clypicterus oseryi)

Crested Oropendola [sp] (Psarocolius decumanus)

Dusky-green Oropendola (Psarocolius atrovirens)

Russet-backed Oropendola [sp] (Psarocolius angustifrons)

Russet-backed Oropendola (Psarocolius angustifrons alfredi)

Olive Oropendola [sp] (Psarocolius bifasciatus)

Yellow-rumped Cacique [sp] (Cacicus cela)

Orange-backed Troupial [sp] (Icterus croconotus)

Pale-eyed Blackbird (Agelasticus xanthophthalmus)

Yellow-winged Blackbird [sp] (Agelasticus thilius)

Giant Cowbird [sp] (Molothrus oryzivorus)

Shiny Cowbird [sp] (Molothrus bonariensis)

Buntings and New World Sparrows (Emberizidae)

Rufous-collared Sparrow [sp] (Zonotrichia capensis)

Yellow-browed Sparrow [sp] (Ammodramus aurifrons)

Slaty Brush Finch [taczanowskii] (Atlapetes schistaceus taczanowskii)

Grey-eared Brush Finch (Atlapetes melanolaemus)

Common Bush Tanager [sp] (Chlorospingus ophthalmicus)

Yellow-whiskered Bush Tanager [sp] (Chlorospingus parvirostris)

Yellow-throated Bush Tanager [sp] (Chlorospingus flavigularis)

Tanagers (Thraupidae)

Red-capped Cardinal [gularis] (Paroaria gularis gularis)

Magpie Tanager [sp] (Cissopis leverianus)

Slaty Tanager (Creurgops dentatus)

Parodi's Hemispingus (Hemispingus parodii)

Superciliaried Hemispingus [urubambae] (Hemispingus superciliaris urubambae)

Black-eared Hemispingus [sp] (Hemispingus melanotis)

Drab Hemispingus (Hemispingus xanthophthalmus)

Three-striped Hemispingus (Hemispingus trifasciatus)

Orange-headed Tanager [sp] (Thlypopsis sordida)

Rust-and-yellow Tanager (Thlypopsis ruficeps)

Black-goggled Tanager (Trichothraupis melanops)

White-shouldered Tanager [sp] (Tachyphonus luctuosus)

White-winged Shrike-tanager [sp] (Lanio versicolor)

Masked Crimson Tanager (Ramphocelus nigrogularis)

Silver-beaked Tanager [sp] (Ramphocelus carbo)

Blue-grey Tanager [sp] (Thraupis episcopus)

Palm Tanager [sp] (Thraupis palmarum)

Blue-capped Tanager [sp] (Thraupis cyanocephala)

Blue-and-yellow Tanager [sp] (Thraupis bonariensis)

Hooded Mountain Tanager [sp] (Buthraupis montana)

Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager [sp] (Anisognathus igniventris)

Grass-green Tanager [sp] (Chlorornis riefferii)

Chestnut-bellied Mountain Tanager (Delothraupis castaneoventris)

Yellow-throated Tanager (Iridosornis analis)

Fawn-breasted Tanager [sp] (Pipraeidea melanonota)

Orange-eared Tanager [sp] (Chlorochrysa calliparaea)

Turquoise Tanager [sp] (Tangara mexicana)

Paradise Tanager [sp] (Tangara chilensis)

Green-and-gold Tanager [sp] (Tangara schrankii)

Golden Tanager [sp] (Tangara arthus)

Saffron-crowned Tanager [sp] (Tangara xanthocephala)

Spotted Tanager [sp] (Tangara punctata)

Bay-headed Tanager [sp] (Tangara gyrola)

Golden-naped Tanager [sp] (Tangara ruficervix)

Blue-necked Tanager [sp] (Tangara cyanicollis)

Beryl-spangled Tanager [sp] (Tangara nigroviridis)

Blue-and-black Tanager [sp] (Tangara vassorii)

Swallow Tanager [sp] (Tersina viridis)

Black-faced Dacnis (Dacnis lineata)

Yellow-bellied Dacnis (Dacnis flaviventer)

Blue Dacnis [sp] (Dacnis cayana)

Purple Honeycreeper [sp] (Cyanerpes caeruleus)

Green Honeycreeper [sp] (Chlorophanes spiza)

Cinereous Conebill [sp] (Conirostrum cinereum)

White-browed Conebill (Conirostrum ferrugineiventre)

Blue-backed Conebill [sp] (Conirostrum sitticolor)

Capped Conebill [sp] (Conirostrum albifrons)

Giant Conebill (Oreomanes fraseri)

Moustached Flowerpiercer [sp] (Diglossa mystacalis)

Moustached Flowerpiercer [albilinea] (Diglossa mystacalis albilinea)

Black-throated Flowerpiercer [sp] (Diglossa brunneiventris)

Bluish Flowerpiercer [sp] (Diglossa caerulescens)

Masked Flowerpiercer [sp] (Diglossa cyanea)

Peruvian Sierra Finch [sp] (Phrygilus punensis)

Plumbeous Sierra Finch [sp] (Phrygilus unicolor)

Ash-breasted Sierra Finch [sp] (Phrygilus plebejus)

White-winged Diuca Finch [sp] (Diuca speculifera)

Chestnut-breasted Mountain Finch (Poospiza caesar)

Greenish Yellow Finch [sp] (Sicalis olivascens)

Saffron Finch [sp] (Sicalis flaveola)

Blue-black Grassquit [sp] (Volatinia jacarina)

Black-and-white Seedeater (Sporophila luctuosa)

Double-collared Seedeater [sp] (Sporophila caerulescens)

Chestnut-bellied Seedeater (Sporophila castaneiventris)

Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch [sp] (Oryzoborus angolensis)

Black-billed Seed Finch [sp] (Oryzoborus atrirostris)

Band-tailed Seedeater [sp] (Catamenia analis)

Plain-colored Seedeater [sp] (Catamenia inornata)

Cardinals, Grosbeaks & Allies (Cardinalidae)

Black-backed Grosbeak [sp] (Pheucticus aureoventris)

Buff-throated Saltator [sp] (Saltator maximus)

Greyish Saltator [sp] (Saltator coerulescens)

Golden-billed Saltator [sp] (Saltator aurantiirostris)