Western Java (Gunung Halimun, Pamanukan, Muara
Angke)
Introduction
This report is based on a five day birding trip
to Western Java from 8th to 12th August 2009, which was
organised together with Indra Ferdinand (Freddy’s Homestay). This birding trip was a continuation of the
previous trip to Western Java in February 2009 and the focus was on the Javan
endemics missed previously. A total of 120
species were seen during the five days of birding.
Birding highlights were Mountain Imperial Pigeon
(rare in Java), Ruddy Cuckoo-dove, Sunda Cuckoo-shrike, Chestnut-breasted
Malkoha, Javan Trogon, Spot-breasted Pied Woodpecker, White-breasted Babbler, White-bibbed
Babbler, Javan White-eye, White-capped Munia, Cerulean Kingfisher and Sunda
Coucal.
Comparing Gunung Halimun with Gunung Gede,
Halimun is a lot more difficult to reach and as a result does not have crowds
of visitors. In addition the accommodation is in the rainforest which is very
pleasant for those not wanting to have to walk long distances to see the birds.
The trip took place during the dry season and
the weather was warm and generally pleasant.
At this time of year Java was noticeably drier
and was suffering from a lack of rain. The skies were hazy largely as a result
of forest burn-off and general pollution.
Itinerary
The itinerary was as follows:
- 8 August - Departed Jakarta at 7am and travelled to Cikaniki Research
Station in Gunung Halimun. Arrived at Cikaniki at midday and after lunch
took a walk on the loop trail which passes through mid altitude rainforest and tea plantations. Stayed at Cikaniki Research Station.
- 9 August - Full day birding in the Gunung Halimun National Park walking on
various trails through the rainforest and adjacent tea plantation. Stayed
at Cikaniki Research Station.
- 10 August – Early morning birding from 5:30am on the Cikaniki entry road.
Left Cikaniki at midday and travelled back to Jakarta and then eastwards
to Pamanukan, arriving in the evening.
Stayed at Pamanukan Hotel.
- 11 August - Half day birding on the fish farms and mangrove wetlands to
the north of Pamanukan. Travelled to Jakarta in afternoon stopping off at
ripening rice paddies to see the White-capped Munia. Stayed at the Sanno
Hotel in North Jakarta.
- 12 August – Early morning departure for Muara Angke. Spent the morning at the Muara Angke Wetland Reserve specifically to locate the Sunda Coucal. Drove to Mecure Rekso hotel in Jakarta after lunch and then to the airport in the evening.
Gunung Halimun National Park
This national park has an area of 40,000 ha and is located south west of
Bogor. From Bogor take the Sukabumi road to the south until Purungkuda. Here
you will find a sign to the park on your right side. Follow this sign until you
reached the village of Cipenteng/Kabandungan. Distance Bogor-Kabandungan is 67
km. Here you will find the park headquarters (PHPA-office) where you can get
the permits to enter the park. From here it is another 23 km along a rough
cobbled track to the park. It’s more comfortable to walk the last 5 km to the
visitor centre and is also good for birding.
Clapped-out transport used in National Park |
The visitor centre, also named Cikaniki Research Station, is located in Gunung
Halimun in the eastern part of the park and is surrounded by mid altitude rainforest.
From the visitor centre there are several trails going into the forest and also
to the nearby tea plantations.
The Cikaniki Research Station has good accommodation and facilities. It also
has a large covered veranda overlooking a small pond, which is fantastic for
relaxing and watching the birdlife, monkeys and odd snakes.
Cikaniki Research Station |
Birds seen from the Cikaniki veranda included Blue Whistling-thrush,
Little Pied Flycatcher, Lesser Forktail, Sunda Robin, Crimson-breasted
Flowerpecker, Blue-winged Leafbird, Chestnut-fronted Shrike-babbler, Spotted
Crocias and Sunda Warbler.
Blue Whistling-Thrush |
Blue-winged Leafbird (Javan subspecies nigricollis) |
In addition, at least four of the threatened Silvery Javan Gibbon (western
subspecies) were seen close up calling and swinging through the trees. Grizzled Leaf Monkey (Presbytis comata) were also seen
eating large leaves in trees close to the visitor centre.
Grizzled Leaf Monkey (Presbytis comata) |
The national park has good walking trails and the main access road is
also excellent for birding. Of note was
a Mountain Imperial Pigeon seen early in the morning on the main access road,
and which was seen clearly whilst flying over. According to the field guide,
this is a very rare bird in Java and has few recent records which include
Halimun.
Pamanukan
Pamanukan is located to the east of Jakarta and
is close to the extensive fish and shrimp farms which have been developed on
the northern coast of Java and are best seen on Google to get a perspective of
the size of the area.
Fish and shrimp farms of Pamanukan |
The accommodation at the Pamanukan Hotel was
very noisy and it felt like I was sleeping on the highway with heavy trucks
thundering by throughout the night. Instead of staying for the planned two
nights we packed up and stayed in Jakarta for the second night.
Pamanukan is similar to Pulau Dua however it is
far larger and does not have protected mangrove forest, although if one walks
far enough into the fish farms then there are still some decent areas of remnant
mangroves. As the area is a good food
source and has protection for breeding birds, the area is a rich in bird species.
Remnant mangroves forests on left, fish farm on right |
The target birds of the area, which were all seen,
included the Cinnamon Bittern, Blue-eared Kingfisher, Savanna Nightjar, Javan
White-eye and White-capped Munia. The latter bird was found in the nearby rice
paddies in fields where the rice is ripening. The Javan White-eye is generally difficult to
see at Pulau Dua in the dense mangroves, yet was easily seen at Pamanukan in a
small open tree alongside rice paddies.
Muara Angke
Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve is a small wetland reserve in the north-western
suburbs of Jakarta and is still a good place to connect with the rare Sunda
Coucal. The wetland is nowadays surrounded by buildings and a huge shopping
centre, however when viewed from the sea there are quite extensive mangrove
forests.
Entry to the reserve needs to be arranged beforehand and payment of
entry fees made to an office located in Jakarta. Refer to www.jakmangrove.org
for further information and directions to the reserve.
The boardwalk has been refurbished and it’s an excellent birding
spot for waterbirds, in particular we saw two Sunda Coucals which was the
target bird for the visit. In total 49 birds were seen during the morning’s
birding which included Black Bittern, Plaintive Cuckoo, Wandering Whistling
Duck, Blue-eared Kingfisher and Golden-bellied Gerygone.
South Jakarta
I stayed at the Gran Mahakam hotel in South
Jakarta which is in a fairly quiet part of Jakarta. At the back of the hotel
the roads are closed to traffic and there are quite a few large trees making it
a good area for birding, considering it’s in Jakarta. There is also a small
stream (heavily polluted) running though a parkland which is good for birding.
In total 16 birds were seen during two hours
birding which included Coppersmith Barbet, Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker,
Brown-throated Sunbird, Collared Kingfisher, Pied Fantail and Golden-bellied
Gerygone.
Unfortunately alongside the park where I was
birding, were a number of stalls selling birds such as leafbirds, broadbills,
barbets, mynas and the ever popular magpie robins.
Literature Used
1.
A Field Guide to the Birds of
Borneo, Sumatra, Java, and Bali, by John MacKinnon and
Karen Phillipps, Oxford University press, recent reprint. Purchased from
Nature’s Niche, a bookstore in Singapore
http://www.naturesniche.com/en/naturesbooks/
2.
A Photographic Guide to the Birds of Indonesia, by Morton Strange, Helm 2003
3.
Where to watch birds in Asia, Nigel Wheatley, 1996.
4. Birding Indonesia, Paul Jepson, Periplus press, 1997.
Of the literature used, only the Field Guide by John MacKinnon and
Karen Phillipps is of any real use for birding in the field. The Photographic Guide
is missing too many birds to be of real use for birding in Java.
References
Bird Guiding Services Indra Ferdinand (Freddy’s Homestay)
Email:
fecote@yahoo.com
Website: www.if-ecoadventures.com
Mobile:
+(62) 857 2037 3169
Systematic List of Birds
The list indicates where the birds were
first seen on the trip and total numbers at the sites.
Ducks, Geese & Swans (Anatidae)
Wandering Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata) Muara
Angke Wetlands 12
Sunda Teal (Anas gibberifrons) Pamanukan Wetlands 2
Ibises, Spoonbills (Threskiornithidae)
Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) Pamanukan Wetlands 140
Herons, Bitterns (Ardeidae)
Yellow Bittern (Ixobrychus sinensis) Pamanukan Wetlands 1
Cinnamon Bittern (Ixobrychus cinnamomeus) Pamanukan
Wetlands 1
Black Bittern (Dupetor flavicollis) Muara Angke Wetlands 2
Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) Pamanukan
Wetlands 16
Striated Heron (Butorides striata) Pamanukan Wetlands 20
Javan Pond Heron (Ardeola speciosa) Pamanukan
Wetlands 48
Eastern Cattle Egret (Bubulcus coromandus) Muara
Angke Wetlands 1
Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) Pamanukan Wetlands 6
Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) Pamanukan Wetlands 2
Eastern Great Egret (Ardea modesta) Pamanukan
Wetlands 2
Intermediate Egret (Egretta intermedia) Pamanukan
Wetlands 51
Little Egret (Egretta garzetta) Pamanukan Wetlands 10
Anhingas, Darters (Anhingidae)
Oriental Darter (Anhinga melanogaster) Muara
Angke Wetlands 12
Kites, Hawks & Eagles (Accipitridae)
Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela) Cikaniki
Research Station 4
Black Eagle (Ictinaetus malayensis) Cikaniki Research Station 1
Rails, Crakes & Coots (Rallidae)
White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus) Muara Angke Wetlands
6
White-browed Crake (Porzana cinerea) Muara
Angke Wetlands 4
Black-backed Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio indicus) Muara Angke Wetlands
2
Eurasian Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) Muara
Angke Wetlands 4
Plovers (Charadriidae)
Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola) Pamanukan Wetlands 2
Javan Plover (Charadrius javanicus) Pamanukan Wetlands 14
Sandpipers, Snipes (Scolopacidae)
Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola) Pamanukan Wetlands 6
Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos) Pamanukan
Wetlands 8
Doves and Pigeons (Columbidae)
Feral Pigeon (Columba livia ''feral'') Muara Angke Wetlands 10
Island Collared Dove (Streptopelia bitorquata) Pamanukan
Wetlands 4
Spotted Dove (Stigmatopelia chinensis) Cikaniki
Research Station 32
Ruddy Cuckoo-dove (Macropygia emiliana) Cikaniki
Research Station 3
Common Emerald Dove (Chalcophaps indica) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Pink-necked Green Pigeon (Treron vernans) Muara
Angke Wetlands 32
Mountain Imperial Pigeon (Ducula badia) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Cuckoos (Cuculidae)
Sunda Coucal (Centropus nigrorufus) Muara
Angke Wetlands 2
Greater Coucal (Centropus sinensis) Pamanukan Wetlands 1
Lesser Coucal (Centropus bengalensis) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus curvirostris) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Plaintive Cuckoo (Cacomantis merulinus) Muara
Angke Wetlands 1
Frogmouths (Podargidae)
Javan Frogmouth (Batrachostomus javensis) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Nightjars (Caprimulgidae)
Savanna Nightjar (Caprimulgus affinis) Pamanukan
Wetlands 1
Treeswifts (Hemiprocnidae)
Grey-rumped Treeswift (Hemiprocne longipennis) Cikaniki
Research Station 12
Swifts (Apodidae)
Cave Swiftlet (Collocalia linchi) Blok M, Jakarta 150
Trogons and Quetzals (Trogonidae)
Javan Trogon (Apalharpactes reinwardtii) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Kingfishers (Alcedinidae)
Collared Kingfisher (Todiramphus chloris) Cikaniki
Research Station 5
Sacred Kingfisher (Todiramphus sanctus) Pamanukan
Wetlands 5
Cerulean Kingfisher (Alcedo coerulescens) Pamanukan
Wetlands 4
Blue-eared Kingfisher (Alcedo meninting) Pamanukan
Wetlands 2
Bee-Eaters (Meropidae)
Blue-tailed Bee-eater (Merops philippinus) Pamanukan
Wetlands 10
Asian Barbets (Megalaimidae)
Brown-throated Barbet (Megalaima corvina) Cikaniki
Research Station 3
Coppersmith Barbet (Megalaima haemacephala) Blok M,
Jakarta 1
Woodpeckers (Picidae)
Sunda Pygmy Woodpecker (Dendrocopos moluccensis) Muara Angke Wetlands
3
Spot-breasted Pied Woodpecker (Dendrocopos analis) Pamanukan Wetlands 6
Crimson-winged Woodpecker (Picus puniceus) Cikaniki
Research Station 2
Thornbills (Acanthizidae)
Golden-bellied Gerygone (Gerygone sulphurea) Blok M,
Jakarta 27
Woodshrikes and allies (Tephrodornithidae)
Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike (Hemipus hirundinaceus) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Woodswallows (Artamidae)
White-breasted Woodswallow (Artamus leucorynchus) Cikaniki Research
Station 24
Ioras (Aegithinidae)
Common Iora (Aegithina tiphia) Blok M, Jakarta 3
Cuckooshrikes (Campephagidae)
Sunda Cuckooshrike (Coracina larvata) Cikaniki
Research Station 5
Pied Triller (Lalage
nigra) Muara Angke Wetlands 1
White-shouldered Triller (Lalage sueurii) Muara
Angke Wetlands 2
Small Minivet (Pericrocotus cinnamomeus) Muara
Angke Wetlands 10
Sunda Minivet (Pericrocotus miniatus) Cikaniki
Research Station 74
Vireos (Vireonidae)
White-browed Shrike-babbler (Pteruthius flaviscapis) Cikaniki Research
Station 2
Chestnut-fronted Shrike-babbler (Pteruthius aenobarbus) Cikaniki
Research Station 5
Old World Orioles (Oriolidae)
Dark-throated Oriole (Oriolus xanthonotus) Cikaniki
Research Station 2
Drongos (Dicruridae)
Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus) Cikaniki
Research Station 3
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo (Dicrurus remifer) Cikaniki
Research Station 6
Fantails (Rhipiduridae)
White-bellied Fantail (Rhipidura euryura) Cikaniki
Research Station 4
Pied Fantail
(Rhipidura javanica) Blok M,
Jakarta 4
Monarch Flycatchers (Monarchidae)
Black-naped Monarch (Hypothymis azurea) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Fairy Flycatchers (Stenostiridae)
Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher (Culicicapa ceylonensis) Cikaniki
Research Station 4
Tits and Chickadees (Paridae)
Cinereous Tit (Parus cinereus cinereus) Cikaniki
Research Station 6
Bulbuls (Pycnonotidae)
Sooty-headed Bulbul (Pycnonotus aurigaster) Blok M,
Jakarta 28
Yellow-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus goiavier) Blok M,
Jakarta 22
Grey-cheeked Bulbul (Alophoixus bres) Cikaniki
Research Station 11
Sunda Bulbul (Ixos virescens) Cikaniki Research Station 2
Swallows and Martins (Hirundinidae)
Pacific Swallow (Hirundo tahitica) Pamanukan Wetlands 14
Bushtits (Aegithalidae)
Pygmy Bushtit (Psaltria exilis) Cikaniki Research Station 2
Leaf warblers and allies (Phylloscopidae)
Mountain Leaf Warbler (Phylloscopus trivirgatus) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Sunda Warbler (Seicercus grammiceps) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Reed warblers and allies (Acrocephalidae)
Oriental Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus orientalis) Muara
Angke Wetlands 2
Clamorous Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus stentoreus) Muara Angke Wetlands
2
Cisticolas and Allies (Cisticolidae)
Zitting Cisticola (Cisticola juncidis) Pamanukan Wetlands 14
Bar-winged Prinia (Prinia familiaris) Muara Angke Wetlands 12
Plain Prinia (Prinia inornata) Pamanukan Wetlands 8
Common Tailorbird (Orthotomus sutorius) Blok M,
Jakarta 2
Ashy Tailorbird (Orthotomus ruficeps) Muara
Angke Wetlands 2
Olive-backed Tailorbird (Orthotomus sepium) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Babblers and Parrotbills (Timaliidae)
Pygmy Wren-babbler (Pnoepyga pusilla) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
White-breasted Babbler (Stachyris grammiceps) Cikaniki
Research Station 7
White-bibbed Babbler (Stachyris thoracica) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Javan Fulvetta (Alcippe pyrrhoptera) Cikaniki Research Station 58
Spotted Crocias (Crocias albonotatus) Cikaniki
Research Station 6
White-Eyes (Zosteropidae)
Oriental White-eye (Zosterops palpebrosus) Blok M,
Jakarta 10
Mountain White-eye (Zosterops montanus) Cikaniki
Research Station 32
Javan White-eye (Zosterops flavus) Pamanukan Wetlands 20
Nuthatches (Sittidae)
Blue Nuthatch (Sitta azurea) Cikaniki Research Station 40
Starlings (Sturnidae)
White-vented Myna (Acridotheres javanicus) Muara
Angke Wetlands 9
Thrushes (Turdidae)
Large Whistling Thrush (Myophonus caeruleus flavirostris) Cikaniki
Research Station 3
Chats and Old World Flycatchers (Muscicapidae)
Sunda Robin (Myiomela diana) Cikaniki Research Station 2
Sunda Forktail (Enicurus velatus) Cikaniki Research Station 4
Little Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula westermanni) Cikaniki
Research Station 5
Pale Blue Flycatcher (Cyornis unicolor) Cikaniki
Research Station 3
Leafbirds (Chloropseidae)
Blue-winged Leafbird (Chloropsis cochinchinensis) Cikaniki Research
Station 45
Flowerpeckers (Dicaeidae)
Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker (Prionochilus percussus) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker (Dicaeum trigonostigma) Cikaniki Research
Station 6
Plain Flowerpecker (Dicaeum minullum) Blok M,
Jakarta 1
Blood-breasted Flowerpecker (Dicaeum sanguinolentum) Cikaniki
Research Station 6
Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker (Dicaeum trochileum) Blok M,
Jakarta 5
Sunbirds (Nectariniidae)
Ruby-cheeked Sunbird (Chalcoparia singalensis) Cikaniki
Research Station 2
Brown-throated Sunbird (Anthreptes malacensis) Blok M,
Jakarta 3
Olive-backed Sunbird (Cinnyris jugularis) Blok M,
Jakarta 3
Javan Sunbird (Aethopyga mystacalis) Cikaniki
Research Station 3
Little Spiderhunter (Arachnothera longirostra) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Long-billed Spiderhunter (Arachnothera robusta) Cikaniki
Research Station 1
Old World Sparrows and Snowfinches
(Passeridae)
Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus) Blok M,
Jakarta 46
Waxbills, Munias and Allies (Estrildidae)
Javan Munia (Lonchura leucogastroides) Cikaniki
Research Station 18
Scaly-breasted Munia (Lonchura punctulata) Blok M,
Jakarta 7
White-capped Munia (Lonchura malacca ferruginosa) Pamanukan Wetlands 4
Pipits and Wagtails (Motacillidae)
Grey Wagtail (Motacilla cinerea) Cikaniki Research Station 1